Reveries of Gubbio
Most days, I wish I was in Gubbio, Italy, if only for a moment.
If you’ve been there, I’ll bet you do too.
Gubbio was my first exposure to one of the many beautiful medieval hill towns in Italy. It surpassed all my expectations, both as a place to visit and as a place to photograph. I hope a few of these photos carry with them some of the warmth, charm, and rustic beauty of the place.
I can’t wait for our next visit.
Hotel Relias Ducale
Two views of the upper entrance to the hotel. This entrance is in the middle of the steeply sloped walkways that cover this part of the town. The stone and brick work is everywhere and is even more charming in person.
Via Alessandro
Said to be the passage Herman Hesse (Nobel prize winning German poet, novelist and essayist) used to get to his favorite upper walkway.
"One believes they are dreaming, or standing in front of a theatrical backdrop. Everything is there, magnificent, still, and fixed in the stone."
Herman Hess, 1907
Top of the Via del Monte
Looking over the city past the tower of the Palazzo dei Consoli and to the hills surrounding the upper Chiascio valley. I love to imagine that this is the view that Herman Hesse lingered on during his strolls along the upper walkways.
"That day, then, I found myself in Gubbio to draw courage and confidence from the sight of the great works of man... I had climbed up a steep little street, and after taking a nearly level side street, I unexpectedly found myself in front of the most imposing building in the city, the medieval Palazzo dei Consoli. That sight put an end to all thought. I went up to the great terrace, went back down, observed, and admired. And for that day, wonder was everything."
Herman Hess, 1907
Piazza Grande at sunset.
The town square is perfectly situated to enjoy the beautiful light of the Umbrian sunset.
Cafe Table, Bar Ducale
The famous cafe table in front of the bar Ducale where Father Matteo and his friend police marshal Antonio Cecchini would play chess and discuss cases in the Italian television mystery comedy show Don Matteo. The program was filmed in Gubbio for the first 8 seaons, and is still being produced, now filmed in Spoleto, about an hour drive away.
Streets of Gubbio
The streets of Gubbio are an inviting place to explore and window shop. Usually not crowded, the town can explode with people on a holiday or celebration day. I love the calm and warmth of sharing the streets with just a small group, and so you’ll usually see just a few people in the pictures I take.
Private Residence
I don’t know who lives in this home. I didn’t see anyone come in or out while I was composing this picture. In my imagination it is just where I’d want to live.
Cathedral Archway
I think that this archway is part of the Duomo dei Santi Mariano e Giacomo. I had just passed by the Cathedral when I found this passage of arches along the walkway.
Teatro Romano
Among it’s many charms, Gubbio has the ruins of a Roman amphitheater just outside the modern town square. The theater dates from the 1st century BC (during the reigns of Augustus or Caesar-Pompey). It is built out of limestone blocks quarried in the region, and could originally hold up to 15,000 spectators. It is actually open to tourists. You can walk all around and sit inside on the original stone seats, as I did.
Food
It goes without saying that food is a very important part of Italian life and culture. The food varies by region, and it is all fantastic. I’m gluten free and was so impressed with the delicious options available to me.
Statue of Saint Ubaldo
This is a shrine and statue dedicated to Saint Ubaldo, the patron saint of Gubbio. It is tucked into a corner at the end of the street Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi. I was surprised to come upon the patron saint in this location.
View of Gubbio and Environs
This was take from the third floor garden of teh Hotel Relias Ducale. I spent several very pleasant hours sitting and reading here. Perhaps you did as well?